Custom Ink Pricing vs RVA Threads: Same Shirt, Same Print, Side By Side

Soft Hand Plastisol Without Sacrificing Color

What Changed In Our Shop

May 7, 2026

If you've spent any time in custom apparel, you know the old tradeoff. Plastisol gives you punchy, opaque color that pops on dark garments and holds up wash after wash. The catch is that it can sit on the fabric like a thick rubber patch. Ask an old-school printer to give you a soft, broken-in hand and they'll tell you to switch to water-based or discharge ink. That's been the conventional wisdom for a long time, and there's truth to it.

We spent the last few months rebuilding parts of our process specifically to push back on that tradeoff. The goal was simple. Deliver the kind of soft hand customers expect on premium retail merch while keeping the saturation and color accuracy plastisol does better than anything else. Three things changed in the shop, and together they're producing a print that feels noticeably different from what most local shops are putting out.

A Real Pantone Mixing System

First up is the Monarch Vivid LB ink mixing system. For anyone who hasn't dealt with Pantone matching in plastisol, here's the short version. Most shops keep a handful of stock colors on the shelf. A red, a yellow, a royal blue, a black, a couple greens. When a customer brings in a logo with a specific brand color, the printer eyeballs it against the stock inventory and picks whatever's closest. Sometimes that's pretty close. Sometimes it isn't. For a brewery that's been using the same shade of orange on every label, can, and coaster for years, "close enough" can be a real problem.

Monarch Vivid is a 23-color blending system engineered specifically to reproduce the Pantone spectrum in plastisol. We pair that with a digital scale accurate to a tenth of a gram and the cloud-based color matching software, which spits out exact gram-weight formulas for any PMS code in the system. Mix the right percentages of two or three base colors, weigh everything to the gram, and what comes out the other end is a real Pantone match. Not a guess.

A couple things worth noting. The system also lets us mix based on how a color appears on a calibrated monitor, so if you've got artwork without a PMS callout, we can still get into the right range and dial it in from there. The Pantone capability really shines for customers who have a specific brand color that needs to hit the same way every time. Restaurant groups, breweries, anyone with brand standards to maintain. The other thing worth mentioning is that Monarch Vivid is a low-bleed formula, which matters on poly blends and tri-blends where dye migration is a constant threat. The ink is also non-phthalate and lead-free, which matters if you're printing kids' shirts or selling to schools.

Thin Thread Mesh Screens

The second piece is in the screens themselves, and this is the one that really starts to change how a print feels. Traditional screen mesh gets identified by its thread count. 110, 156, 200, and so on, referring to threads per inch. What most people don't realize is that two screens with the same thread count can have very different open areas depending on how thick the actual threads are. Thinner threads at the same count means more open space between them, which means more ink can pass through with less pressure.

The numbers are striking when you look at them side by side. A standard 110 mesh has about 43 percent open area. A thin thread 150 mesh has around 51 percent open area, even though it's a higher thread count. That's counterintuitive at first, but it's real, and it's the whole reason we switched.

What that does for the print is two things at once. The ink deposit comes out more even and lays smoother on the fabric instead of building up in ridges. And because we can run a finer mesh without losing ink flow, halftones, fine lines, and small text print cleaner. Less squeegee pressure also means less stencil drag and tighter registration on multi-color jobs.

The catch is that thin thread mesh is more delicate. The threads are easier to break and screens are more likely to pop if you're rough with them. We're handling them with care, but the print quality improvement is worth the extra attention.

The Finishing Step Most Shops Skip

The third change is post-cure finishing, and this is the part that surprises most other printers when we explain what we're doing.

After every shirt comes off the conveyor dryer fully cured, we hit it with a Stahls Hotronix Fusion heat press. The press is set up specifically for this finishing step. Even pressure across the entire 16 by 20 platen, calibrated temperature, and a parchment cover sheet between the print and the upper platen. Each garment gets a few seconds of medium pressure, which does two things.

It gives the cure a second pass first. Plastisol needs to reach 320 degrees throughout the ink film to fully cure. Conveyor dryers do this well in most conditions, but ambient shop temperature, garment thickness, and ink deposit can all affect how cleanly the cure goes. Hitting the print with a heat press at temperature reinforces what the conveyor already did and gives us more confidence in the durability of the print before it heads out the door.

The bigger deal for customer feel is what the press does to the surface of the print. Plastisol that comes off a conveyor often has a slightly raised, textured feel where cotton fibers have stood up through the ink and where the squeegee left a faint ridge. The press mats all of that down. The print sits flush against the fabric, the surface goes from slightly nubby to smooth, and the hand drops noticeably. We use parchment instead of a glossy teflon sheet because it leaves a matte finish rather than a plastic shine. The print stays opaque and color-saturated, but it feels more like part of the shirt than a sticker stuck on top.

This isn't a fast step. We're adding handling time to every shirt that goes out the door, which is why most shops don't do it. The upside beyond the feel of the print is that every garment passes through a real set of eyes one more time before it gets folded and boxed. Misprints, lint, loose threads, anything we missed earlier in the run gets caught at the press. Nothing ships without somebody looking at it directly under the lights.

What This Means For Your Order

The reason any of this matters is that the customer is now getting a print that hits brand-accurate colors, sits softer on the shirt, and gets eyes on it one more time before it ships. That's the trifecta traditional plastisol couldn't quite pull off on its own. Restaurants and breweries get tasting room shirts that customers actually want to wear, not just souvenirs they wash once and shove in a drawer. Bands and merch lines get prints that hold up to the kind of wear band tees actually see. Corporate clients get brand colors that are right the first time and every reorder after.

We're using all of this on every job we run, regardless of order size. There's no premium tier where you have to pay extra to get the new process. If you're ordering shirts from us in Richmond, Virginia Beach, Chesapeake, Hampton, or anywhere else in Virginia, this is what comes out the door.

The minimum is still 12 pieces and the pricing structure is unchanged. If you've got a project on deck, plug your specs into the calculator and you'll see real numbers in seconds. If you've got a Pantone color you've been told nobody can hit, send it over. Now we can.

Ready To See The Difference?

Build your quote, send your artwork, and we'll handle the rest. Soft hand, full color, every shirt.

Run Your Quote
Back to blog